Optional Audio Introduction

  

Updated: 07/03/2005


Module 13-2

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Filters and Lens
Attachments

Part II

 


 

Polarizing Filters

Most people are familiar with the effect that polarized sunglasses have on reducing reflections and cutting down glare. Unlike sunglasses, the effect of most professional polarizing filters can be continuously varied—and, as a result, go much farther in their effect.

Polarizing filters can:

  • reduce glare and reflections
  • deepen blue skies
  • penetrate haze
  • saturate (intensify) colors

Note the difference in the two photos below.

Once its many applications are understood, a polarizing filter can become a videographer's most valuable image altering filter. Simple polarizing filters need between one and one-half to two extra f-stops of exposure.

As we've noted, the effect of some professional polarizing filters is adjustable. This is done by rotating the orientation of two polarizing filters used next to each other in the housing.

When doing critical copy work, such as photographing paintings with a shiny surface, polarizing filters can be used over the lights, as well as over the camera lens. By rotating one or more of these filters, objectionable reflections can be eliminated.


Contrast Control Filters

Although the latest generation of professional video cameras is capable of capturing contrast or brightness ranges up to 700:1—far in excess of standard motion picture film stocks—home television sets and viewing conditions limit that range to not more than 30:1.

This means that the brightest element in a scene can't be more than 30 times brighter than the darkest element with any hope of seeing the detail in each. (Digital/HDTV receivers do considerably better, but until everyone has a digital set, we need to "play it safe.")

"Real world scenes" often contain collections of elements that exceed the 30:1 brightness range. Although in the studio we might be able to control this with lighting, things become a bit more challenging outside.  For critical exterior scenes the professional videographer must often consider ways to reduce the brightness range. One way is with the use of a contrast control filter.

There are actually three types of these filters—low contrast, soft contrast, and the Tiffen Ultra Contrast. Filters such as these, together with various fog and mist filters, are used to simulate the "film look" in video.


Filters For "the Film Look"

Compared to film, some people feel that digital video can look a bit harsh, overly sharp, and even a bit brassy. At the same time, many people feel that video is a unique medium, and it should not try to take on the characteristics of film.

Even so, some Directors of Photography (DPs) feel that people are more comfortable with the softer "film look." In case you are interested in delving more into "a film look,"   -- this link provides information.


Day-For-Night

A common special effect—especially in the days of black and white film and television—was the "night scene" shot in broad daylight—so-called day-for-night. (In those days film stocks and video cameras were not very sensitive to light, and you couldn't shoot at night.) 

With black-and-white film or video a deep red filter could be used over the lens to turn blue skies dark, even black. (As we will see when we  talk about color a little later, a red filter subtracts blue.) That, together with three or four f-stops of underexposure, completed the illusion.

Although not quite as easy to pull off in color today, the effect can be simulated by underexposing the camera by at least two f-stops and either using a blue filter or creating a bluish effect when you white balance your camera. (We cover this in a section called "lying to your camera" in Module 18.)

A contrast control filter and careful control of lighting (including avoiding the sky in scenes) adds to the effect. Embellishments added during postproduction make the "night" effect even more convincing.

With the sensitivity of professional cameras now down to one foot-candle (a few lux), "night-for-night" scenes are now possible. Whatever approach you use, some experimentation will be needed using a high-quality color monitor as a reference.


Color Conversion Filters

Color conversion filters are designed to correct the sizable shift in color temperature between incandescent light and sunlight—a shift of about 2,000K. Although the differences in color temperatures of different light sources will make more sense after we examine color temperature in a later module, since we are covering filters, we would be remiss if we didn't mention this issue at this point.

Although minor color balancing is done electronically in professional cameras, major shifts are best handled by colored filters.

There are two series of filters in this category, the Wratten #80 series, which are blue and convert incandescent light to the color temperature of sunlight, and the Wratten #84 series, which are amber, and convert daylight to the color temperature of tungsten light.

Since video cameras are optimized for one color temperature, these filters are used—generally in a filter wheel, and often in conjunction with a ND filter—to make the necessary "ballpark" adjustment. The rest is done electronically when the camera is color balanced through the filter.
 

Filters for Fluorescent Light

Some lighting sources are difficult to correct.  A prime example, and one that videographers frequently run into, is fluorescent light. These lights seem to be everywhere, and they can be a problem.

Although in recent years camera manufacturers have tried to compensate for the greenish cast that fluorescent lights can create, when it comes to such things as getting true-to-life skin tones—and assuming you can't turn off the lights and set up your own incandescent lights—you might need to experiment with a fluorescent light filter.

We say "experiment" because there are dozens of fluorescent tubes, each with different color characteristics. But one characteristic they all have is a "broken spectrum," or gaps in the range of colors they emit. The eye can (more or less) compensate for this when it views things first-hand, but film and video cameras typically have problems.

There are other sources of light that are even worse—in particular the metal halide lights often used in gymnasiums and for street lighting. This is discussed in more detail in the lighting module on color temperature. Although the public accepts these lighting aberrations in news and documentary footage, when it comes to drama or commercials it's a different story.

As we will see, there are color balanced fluorescent lamps that are not a problem, because they have been especially designed for TV and film work. But, don't expect to find them in schools, offices, or board rooms.


Special Effect Filters

Although there are scores of special effect filters available, we'll just highlight four of the most popular: the star filter, the starburst filter, the diffusion or soft focus filter, and the fog filter.

Star Filters — You've undoubtedly seen scenes in which "fingers of light" projected out from the sides of shiny objects—especially bright lights. This effect is created with a glass star filter that has a microscopic grid of crossing parallel lines cut into its surface. Notice in the picture on the right that the four-point star filter used also slightly softens and diffuses the image.

Star filters can produce four, five, six, or eight-point stars, depending on the lines engraved on the surface of the glass. The star effect varies with the f-stop used.

A starburst filter (on the left, below) adds color to the diverging rays. Both star filters and starburst filters slightly reduce the overall sharpness of the image, which may or may not be desirable.

starburst.jpg diffuse.jpg  

Soft Focus and Diffusion Filters — Sometimes you may want to create a dreamy, soft focus effect. This can be done by using a soft focus filter or a diffusion filter (on the right, above). These filters, which are available in various levels of intensity, were regularly used in the early cinema to give starlets a soft, dreamy appearance, while hiding signs of aging. (Some "over-30" starlets even had this requirement written into their contracts.)

A similar effect can be achieved by shooting through fine screen wire placed close to the lens, or by shooting through a single thickness of a nylon stocking. The f-stop used will greatly affect the level of diffusion. In the case of soft focus filters or diffusion materials it's important to white balance your camera with these items in place.

Fog Filters — A certain amount of "atmosphere" can be added to dramatic locations by suggesting a foggy morning or evening. Without having to rely on nature or artificial fog machines, fog filters can create somewhat of the same effect. (Note the photo on the right.)
   

General Considerations
in Using Filters

Whenever a filter is used with a video camera the black level of the video is raised slightly. This creates a slight graying effect. Because of this, it's advisable to readjust camera setup or black level (either automatically or manually) whenever a filter is used.

Unlike electronic special effects created during postproduction, the optical effects created by filters during the taping of a scene can't be undone. To make sure there are no unpleasant surprises, it's best to carefully check the results on location with the help of a high-quality color monitor.
   

Camera Filter Wheels

As we've noted, professional video cameras have one or two filter wheels located behind the lens that can hold a number of filters. Individual filters on each wheel can be rotated into the lens filterwheelslight path as needed.

Note in the photo on the right that the camera has two filter wheels. One labeled 1 - 4, and one A - D. Each wheel can be turned to rotate into position the various options noted on the right of the photo. For example 2-B would be a 1/4 ND (neutral density) filter, along with a 3,200K color correction filter.

Filter wheels might also contain -

  • a fluorescent light filter, which can reduce the blue-green effect of fluorescent lights
     
  • one or more special effect filters, including the previously discussed star filter
     
  • an opaque "lens cap," which blocks all light going through the lens

Although filters shown are located behind the lens, it should be noted that some filters, such as polarizing filters, must be mounted in front of the camera lens to be most effective.
   

Matte Boxes

A matte box is a device mounted on the front of the camera that acts both as an adjustable lens hood and as a way of holding gelatin filters.

As wematte box   noted earlier, instead of using circular glass filters, comparatively inexpensive square or rectangular colored gels (gelatin filters) can be inserted into the the matte box, just in front of the lens. Note photo on the left.

Matte boxes can also hold small cutout patterns or masks. For example, a keyhole-shaped pattern can be cut out of a piece of cardboard and used to give the illusion of shooting through a keyhole (although these days there are very few keyholes you can see through).  Most of the effects formerly created by matte boxes are now more easily and more predictably achieved electronically with a special-effects generator.


Periscope Lens

A "bug's eye" view of subject matter is possible with a periscope/probe system.

This angle is useful when actors are electronically keyed into realistic or fantasy miniature models. The effect is enhanced with the wide-angle views of the four lenses that come with the system. This model is modular in design and can be used with SDTV, HDTV, and a full range of film cameras.

prehistoric.jpg

In the photo on the right a lens probe of this type is used to film a miniature prehistoric setting that will later "come to life" in a full-scale effect. Although this is a film camera, the camera has a video viewfinder to provide immediate feedback on the image being captured on film. (Note video monitor.)

In the next section we'll conclude the discussion of lenses and lens attachments.



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